Here’s A Beautiful Way to Finish Mahogany with Tung Oil, Step-by-Step

Here's A Beautiful Way to Finish Mahogany with Tung Oil, Step-by-Step
Full discussion on our blog!

How to Give Mahogany an Awesome Wood Finish with Tung Oil Varnish + Polyurethane


**

We think mahogany is a super cool wood to build furniture with – it’s easy to work with, and it looks absolutely fabulous with a good wood finish. Especially an oil finish that gives the wood a bold, natural color.

So check out this video. We made this table from hard white maple (the base) and genuine mahogany (top), and the combo is awesome.

We’ll walk you though how to wet-sand a tung oil varnish to fill the grain and bring out the color, then how to use an ultra-simple gel polyurethane to give it a lot of protection and a nice, warm satin sheen.

***
Check it out, and visit our website if you’re interested in build some projects out of mahogany.
***

Products used:
Old Masters Tung Oil Varnish
Zinsser Seal Coat
Old Masters Gel Polyurethane, satin
Old Masters Paste Wax

Here’s A Beautiful Way to Finish Mahogany with Tung Oil, Step-by-Step

12 thoughts on “Here’s A Beautiful Way to Finish Mahogany with Tung Oil, Step-by-Step”

  1. This is so helpful and detailed! I have an old table top that has a mahogany veneer and had quite a bit of heat damage. I stripped off the varnish was on it with a chemical stripper and it got a bit lighter in colour but I think it looks really nice. I know I could sand, stain etc. but if I just want to protect it and leave it as it currently looks, could I just do the gel poly and wax or is that going to cause some problems that I can't imagine?

  2. Great video! The table top came out beautifully. A couple quick questions! Did you use any type of wood filler before or after sanding? Also, i am working on a table top of genuine mahogany, and really want to pull out more brown color from the wood… any tips on how-to?

  3. Thanks for the great video; the table top is stunning! I am a bit of a novice, and have a raw mahogany table top that I'll drop a bar sink into. Can I use this technique to bring out the grain – with the product used in this video – and then use a clear epoxy coat to waterproof it? I would wait at least a week for the stains to fully cure. Will this work? Please advise; I appreciate it!

  4. Thankyou for the interesting, informative video. I have some questions. You said the Mahogany was freshly cut. Does that mean the piece of wood you are working on came from a freshly harvested tree? I'm going to guess the answer is no, because that would mean that it wasn't seasoned, which would not bode well for the future stability of that table top. (Unless maybe it was kiln dried?) I ask because I have gotten my hands on some nice pieces from a very large West Indies Mahogany tree that was harvested a week ago. I'm anxious to work on it but understand that it must be properly dried/seasoned first to attain stability.

  5. I'm confused, why use oil if you're covering with shellac and poly? Is it for color? It seems like an extra step. Thanks in advance for the explanation. Still learning these techniques. Great videos!

  6. Currently using this method on a grandfather clock I built. Just have 2 more coats of gel varnish and then the paste wax. It's turning out amazing! Thank you for the clear and organized video!

Comments are closed.