Finishing Walnut: 4 Steps to Create A Beautiful Reddish Brown Wood Finish

Finishing Walnut: 4 Steps to Create A Beautiful Reddish Brown Wood Finish
This is a step-by-step tutorial on how we finished a solid walnut table top to 1). hide sapwood 2). create a gorgeous reddish color toned with a super dark brown, and 3). still keeps the wonderful nuance of real, warm wood.

The result is pretty cool, and looks fantastic with the solid hard white maple base.

Even if you’re not crazy about the reddish color, hang tight. This very same process can be used with slightly different dye color to go more brown, more amber, or anything else.

We like to give you wood finishing tips and recipes from time to time, and here’s the latest one. In this one, you’ll learn about using:
oil stain
clear satin aerosol lacquer

Finishing Walnut: 4 Steps to Create A Beautiful Reddish Brown Wood Finish

15 replies on “Finishing Walnut: 4 Steps to Create A Beautiful Reddish Brown Wood Finish”

  1. I'm very impressed with this video. Interesting technique. I used to try to homogenize walnut, but I've learned to love the variations. But, I will be trying this technique in the future as it is an innovative way to control the variations in walnut. Great video, keep 'em coming.

  2. It would be nice to know which dyes you used. I am attempting to dupicate the finish on a 100+/- year old Queen Anne dining table which has veneer damage. Acheiving the reddish yellow antique finish that is on the sides is challenging to duplicate on the top as well as the semi gloss varnish on top of the stain.

  3. finished product = ruined piece of walnut. That colour is hideous and the stain looks like crap.

    If you want a nice dark walnut finish, go hand select boards that don't have sapwood and have deeper brown coloration.

    This video is how NOT to do walnut. Barf.

  4. I noticed you thinned the NGR dye with water. I’ve never seen that before, so are there no problems mixing an alchohol based dye with water? Or is it superior to dilute with water vs. denatured alcohol?

  5. Pls ask me all product your using i dont know so pls detail all product name and whats product and how to glossi image pls ask me.

  6. Great tutorial. I liked the color much, much more BEFORE the glazing step than after it when it had a little bit of orange & red tones… it looked much more like an exotic wood, even a little bit like a cross of fresh cut Padauk mixed with Goncales Alves…

  7. Thank you for all your effort in your videos. They are always a great information source.

  8. Great Video. In place of the oil based gel stain, can I use a dark colored water based grain filler like timbermate? I want a smooth surface.

  9. I have watched several of your videos on finishing walnut. I am trying to decide on a finish for a small walnut end table—my first hand-tool woodworking project. I like the finish when the shellac is applied before the glazing. Can one simply end at that step? If so, would you recommend an all shellac finish or jumping to the lacquer finish?

  10. If you use some System Three Epoxy 2:1 you have plenty of work time before the epoxy cures. The scraping you are doing with a piece of plywood is not necessary. Pour the epoxy on the top of the box and use a System Three foam roller (cut to 3/5 inches and use a 3 inch roller handle…original foam rollers are 7" long) to completely cover the area with a uniform thickness of epoxy with light strokes. You should be able to uniformly cover the top of your box in less than a minute…then use a 2" or 3" foam brush and lightly tip the top of the epoxy box and sides to smooth out the surface and get rid of any bubbles. You can now use your heat source to get rid of all bubbles and warm the epoxy some so that it lays down very uniform and smooth.  This way you end up with a thicker epoxy surface and its easier and less messy. I have done this on 2'x18' panels for a boat, it works great and the entire surface looks like glass. … then I have to sand before painting.

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